Thanksgiving

seriously, it’s here already?

Watercolor on Arches cold press, 9 x 12”, M.A.Erickson

Wow, I guess I saw it coming, but somehow it still feels like a shock. Not so long ago, we were enjoying lunches on the deck, fresh-picked salads piled high on our plates. And now, suddenly, all we crave are warm, comforting soups. How did things change so fast? Seemingly overnight, we’ve shifted how we dress, shop and eat.

This shift was brought home to me a few weeks ago when we were invited to a dinner party. Our host, having seen a recent post featuring my tomato-corn bread pudding, timed for late summer, asked if we could bring it along. I happily agreed only to discover the enormous display of sweet corn I’d seen several days before had vanished, gone, just like that. Bright red, plump local tomatoes had been replaced with pale imports. As a chef, these disappointments come with the territory, you learn to roll with the punches. Summer’s bounty was gone and in its place were apples, pumpkins and squashes. I switched gears and decided on a butternut squash bread pudding, which actually proved a better fit given the cooler weather.

It was a vivid reminder that the season’s gifts are fleeting. Summer vegetables shine at their peak, while autumn naturally ushers in sturdier vegetables, which store well. After months of grilling outdoors, it’s a nice change to feel the oven’s warmth in the kitchen and savor the comforting foods on our plates.

The cooler weather invites slow-roasted dishes, warming soups and hearty casseroles. I find casseroles incredibly satisfying to make and as a bonus, they often provide leftovers. Lately I’ve been on a kick making different bread puddings, the savory variety: mushroom-leek with goat cheese, spinach and zucchini with feta, and fittingly for this time of year, butternut squash.

Butternut squash is one of the easier squashes to work with given its somewhat regular shape. Whether roasted to deepen its natural sweetness, pureed into a soup, or turned into a cozy bread pudding, it’s a perfect fit for the season. With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I can’t think of a more fitting dish to share as we celebrate the season and give thanks.

Butternut Squash Bread Pudding
Serves 8

1 medium butternut squash (about 1 1/2 lbs), peeled, seeded, and cut into 3/4” cubes (about 6 cups)
1/2 cup chopped fresh sage
2–3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium thinly sliced onions
2 tablespoons butter
6 large eggs
1 1/2 cups grated cheese, a mix is best, Parmesan, cheddar, gruyere etc…
2 cups milk
2 cups half-and-half
freshly grated nutmeg
8–10 cups stale, dry, crusty peasant-style or sourdough bread, with crusts, cut into 1” cubes, if not stale allow to dry out in a 200° oven first.
salt
pepper

• Preheat oven to 375°F. Lightly butter or oil a 13” x 9” ceramic baking dish.

• In a mixing bowl, season butternut squash cubes with salt, 1/4 cup chopped sage, and olive oil. Place on sheet tray and roast in the oven 20–25 minutes, until tender.

• While the squash is cooking, caramelize onions in a medium saucepan with butter and the remaining sage. Cook until onions are soft, sweet, and deep brown, 12–15 minutes. Set aside.

• In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, cheese, milk, and half-and-half. Season with grated nutmeg, generous pinch salt, and pepper to taste. Add cubed bread to custard mix and let stand at least 20 minutes.

• Now it’s time to assemble the dish. Combine the roasted butternut squash and cooked onions with the bread-custard mix. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Let stand at room temperature another 20 minutes.

• Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and bake until pudding has set and lightly browned on top, about 1 hour or more. Check the center with a toothpick, much as you would with a cake. It is usually puffed in the center, then allow to settle and cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.